Thursday, October 29, 2015

There's a Secret Room down a Small Hall of the Old Faithful Inn

It's 3 a.m. and I'm on vacation with the carful of kids in Yellowstone National Park after road tripping from Central Texas to Jasper National Park and back--why am I up? I went hiking, didn't hit the caffeine too hard, yet I'm wide awake.

Like a lot of Moms out there, I'm up in the middle of the night even on vacation--I think it's a holdover from the early morning feedings. Maybe legions of Moms wake up in the middle of the night to be in solidarity with the Moms still working the baby night shift.

So I'm up with nothing to do when my mind begins to wander, I think of all the cool stuff I saw during the day, then I remember the sign for a Tub Room. I turn over and hatch a plan to sneak out of the room and investigate without waking anyone up.

With the help of my phone, I gather my toiletry bag and tiptoe out of the room into the slumbering quiet of the Old Faithful Inn. As I quietly make my way across the mezzanine and down the hall opposite of my room, the floor boards squeak in the 100 year-old log building.

I walk down the tiny, dark hall to the door and turn it, hoping for a release. Too my disappointment, it's locked. As I lumber back to my room to sneak back into my bed and wait for sleep to find me again and can't help but wonder, why would it be locked?

Then it dawns on me. I sigh, smile and fall back asleep for another hour.

I am the first one up the second time around, I gather my bag and head to the door with more determination. I am going to get into the tub room--sure, it might be a room for housekeeping but I'm hopeful for a little hot-water nirvana.

I walk down the tiny, dark hall that seems to be still sleeping and turn the doorknob of the tub room. This time the door moves inward but the room is still as dark as a starless night. I fumble around, feeling for the light switch and with a flick, I illuminate a hidden treasure of the Old Faithful Inn--a clawfoot tub!

Tucked away, down a hall in the Old Faithful Inn is a tub room.
As a lover of anything vintage, I adore this moment made just for me. I find the Do Not Disturb sign, hang it from the knob and lock the door.

I look around my secret escape--it's still kinda early and no one is in the other tub room. I will have to soak away the road tripping funk fast--the world is starting to wake up.

As you know, I have been driving my carful of kids hard and fast to the top of North America and I miss my morning bath ritual in my clawfoot tub at home. It relaxes me and then it recharges me.

I turn on the hot water knob of the chrome British Telephone faucet and gather the Old Faithful Inn Signature Bath Products that are in all the OFI bathrooms. I lay my fluffy, white towel on the table next to the tub.

I slip into the hot water and close my eyes and breath. The next few minutes float away in a hot water and bubble-induced haze.

With a clang of the door across the hall, I awaken refreshed and ready to explore. Time to move on and let others enjoy a soak.

Now I will let you in on a little secret, there is no special key to get into the tub room. If it is open, it is yours. And if I was camping in the campground nearby, I would have a hard time not sneaking in for a wee, little soak.

Just bring your own towel, they are not provided in the tub rooms.

Up Next: Moving on to the Lake District of Yellowstone with another stay in a historic property.

Know before you go: Yellowstone National Park is open every day and the 7-day admission is $ 30 for a private vehicle or you can purchase an annual America the Beautiful Pass for $ 80 to gain entry to the majority of the national parks and monuments. There are seasonal road closures in the majority of the park except for the North and Northeast Entrance that are open year-round to vehicle traffic.

I reserved an Old House Room with a shared bath for a reasonable $ 115 a night--yes there isn't a bathroom in this room but the facilities are amazing and right down the hall. A sink with a mirror and vanity is located in the room so you can brush your teeth and wash your face.

There are no televisions or radios in the OFI rooms but there are outlets to plug in your phone, though service is spotty throughout Yellowstone NP.

The lodging reservations within the National Park System is available 13 months in advance so you have to be persistent to get rooms in the more popular locations within Yellowstone NP. I was and got all the properties I wanted--MAKE RESERVATIONS months in advance, even for camping, if you are visiting Yellowstone NP during the high season.

Wednesday, October 28, 2015

Geyser Gawking in Yellowstone National Park

A Rainbow that Ends at the Old Faithful Geyser!
The carful of kids are in Yellowstone National Park for a week, after road tripping our way from Central Texas to Jasper National Park and back. As luck or persistant planning would have it, I got two consecutive nights in the Old House section of the Old Faithful Inn.

You need to do this. As a collector of genuine experiences, this is a great one. Staying at the Old Faithful Inn will be one of the memories your family will recall for a lifetime.

The carful of kids enjoy game night at the Old Faithful Inn
Watching the Old Faithful Geyser from the balcony, listening to the fiddler play from the mezzanine, eating in the OFI Dining Room are all part of the experience. The most important of all is spending time as a family, unplugged from our screens but dialed into each other.

The carful of kids explored the area around Old Faithful Geyser yesterday by hiking to Morning Glory Pool and taking a vintage bus tour of Firehole Lake Drive. We're venturing farther by exploring more geysers and trails up to Madison Junction.

Dress in Layers, bonus points if you coordinate your outfits to match Morning Glory Pool!

The carful of kids lace up our hiking boots and head downstairs for breakfast in the Old Faithful Inn Dining Room ( Breakfast hours 6:00 to 10:30 a. m. ) for the breakfast buffet that features all the standard breakfast fare ( $ 13.25 /adults and $ 6.75/ kids ). We are able to get in and out quickly and there isn't a wait to be seated.

The Tour starts with the Doors of the Old Faithful Inn

Up first is the Old Faithful Inn Tour that starts at 9:30 a.m., it's free and you don't have to reserve a spot in advance though the crowd gets larger at the later tours. Tours start in the lobby next to the fireplace at 9:30 a.m., 11:00 a.m., 2:00 p.m. and 3:30 p.m.

The Old Faithful Inn was an innovation when it was built over the winter of 1903-1904 with electric lights, steam heat and indoor plumbing under the direction of 29 year-old architect, Robert Reamer. The majority of the materials were sourced within miles of the building site, dragged by a horse team.

Robert Reamer, the OFI architect, hiked throughout the forest looking for trees like this.
As we walk around taking in the details on our tour, I am particularily drawn to the staircases and railings. They are works of art. On the tour, I see a small sign hanging from the ceiling, Tub Room--interesting, need to check that out later.

After the Old Faithful Inn Tour, the carful of kids pack into the SUV for more geyser gawking starting at the Black Sand Basin with Opalescent Pool and Emerald Pool, with names like that I have to investigate; they are across the way from Old Faithful. I am a sucker for blue-green water so I am in love with the pools of Yellowstone.

We can't get enough of the geysers.
After the Black Sand Basin, the carful of kids continue north and stop off at Biscuit Basin to view the Sapphire Pool and Jewel Geyser; both of these are within a short hike of Old Faithful Inn if you would prefer to walk. Continuing north, we pull into Midway Geyser Basin for the largest hot spring in the U.S., Grand Prismatic Spring.

Some of the trash that Park Rangers pick up around the pools and geysers.
Grand Prismatic Spring is a marvel and a must-see with its rainbow colors formed by the microbes in the mineral water. This area is very popular and parking can be a problem, visit early or late in the day.

Grand Prismatic with the carful of kids.

We continue on to the Lower Geyer Basin where we pass the Fountain Paint Pot and meet our first bison. He makes his home next to a steam vent and this area is a favorite with bison, who overwinter here because of the heat.

Now is a good time to remind the kids that bison are unpredictable and can run three times faster than an adult. It is best to leave 25 yards in-between you and the bison but when they sit next to the boardwalk that's nearly impossible. Yellowstone Park Rangers are on duty in this area patrolling and monitoring the human-animal interface.

Bison watching visitors.
After bison-watching and geyser-gawking, the carful of kids are ready for lunch. We park at the Madison Junction area where I find the nicest public restrooms in the park and have a picnic. Remember to keep your picnic site manned at all times, chipmunks can ransack your table in a flash.

After lunch, the carful of kids check in at the Junior Ranger Station, the only one in the park and located at Madison Junction, to speak with the Park Rangers about activities that kids will enjoy. The Ranger Station has animal hides for the kids to touch and a bookstore dedicated to Junior Rangers.

My Girl Scout getting her NPS-Girl Scout Patch

This area also hosts Evening Ranger Programs just for Junior Rangers; check the park newspaper for current offerings. This is also where my Girl Scout received her patch for National Park Stewardship after she completed 10 hours of service--there is a similar award for Boy Scouts.


I promised the carful of kids I'd take it easy and enjoy our stay in Yellowstone so we are heading back to the Old Faithful Inn to spend time on the balcony watching the Old Faithful Geyser and playing games. We have a dinner reservation in the dining room a little later but I have an idea.

My husband and I want to have a dinner by ourselves and since the oldest carful of kid is babysitter certified, we give her a room key and some cash and send them to the cafe next to the dining room. It's a nice break when traveling with a carful of kids.

Dinner at Old Faithful Inn
We visited Yellowstone National Park years ago before we were parents and had dinner in the Old Faithful Inn's Dining Room. Well as luck would have it, we were seated at the same table that we ate at 15 years ago. Funny when your past and present intersect unexpectedly.


Up Next: Lake Hotel and Yellowstone Lake


Know before you go: If you have a limited time in the Old Faithful area, walk through Old Faithful Inn, witness Old Faithful Geyser and stop by Grand Prismatic Spring. Talk with the Park Rangers about seasonal traffic and road construction to prevent driving delays.

Yellowstone National Park is open every day and the 7-day admission is $ 30 for a private vehicle or you can purchase an annual America the Beautiful Pass for $ 80 to gain entry to the majority of the national parks and monuments. There are seasonal road closures in the majority of the park except for the North and Northeast Entrance that are open year-round to vehicle traffic.

I reserved an Old House Room with a shared bath for a reasonable $ 115 a night--yes there isn't a bathroom in this room but the facilities are amazing and right down the hall. A sink with a mirror and vanity is located in the room so you can brush your teeth and wash your face.

There are no televisions or radios in the OFI rooms but there are outlets to plug in your phone, though service is spotty throughout Yellowstone NP.

The lodging reservations within the National Park System is available 13 months in advance so you have to be persistent to get rooms in the more popular locations within Yellowstone NP. I was and got all the properties I wanted--MAKE RESERVATIONS months in advance, even for camping, if you are visiting Yellowstone NP during the high season.

Old Faithful Inn dinner reservations are recommended for the best times. Breakfast and Lunch are open-seating.

Tuesday, October 20, 2015

Old Faithful Inn and Geyser with the Carful of Kids


The first trip to Yellowstone National Park for the carful of kids
The carful of kids left Central Texas to explore the Rocky Mountains a while back, so far we've seen the Black Hills of South Dakota and Glacier National Park before heading across the Canadian Border to explore Banff and Jasper National Parks. We're on our way back home but first, we have a week to explore Yellowstone National Park.

The carful of kids spent the night in the Bozeman area after picking up Dad from the Bozeman Yellowstone International Airportthis is a great alternative to Jackson, Wyoming. It's less expensive and more assessable than Jackson Hole for lodging, flights and rental cars--it also has all the provisions that you need to buy for a week in Yellowstone.

I recommend at least a week in Yellowstone NP, there's so much to experience in a park that encompasses 3,400 square miles. Yellowstone's world-class geothermal activity, premier animal viewing and unique geological features make this park a must-see destination.

Another new state for the carful of kids, it's a quick drive into Idaho from West Yellowstone. 

Since the carful of kids are collecting states like some people collect stamps, we enter Yellowstone National Park from the West Entrance after taking a side trip into Idaho, 15 miles from the town of West Yellowstone. West Yellowstone has all the services for Yellowstone visitors, though I find it a bit touristy for my taste.

Yellowstone National Park is open every day and the 7-day admission is $ 30 for a private vehicle or you can purchase an annual America the Beautiful Pass for $ 80 to gain entry into the majority of national parks and monuments. Seasonal road closures affect most routes except the North and Northeast entrance which are open year-round to vehicles.

Yellowstone National Park was the first national park in the world when it was created in 1872, an idea that other countries would adopt to protect their special places. Yellowstone, derived from the descriptive French and Native American name for the area, has the highest concentration of geyers in the world and half of the world's geothermal features because of the Yellowstone Caldera, an active supervolcano.

Adventure awaits.
Where to start--no trip to Yellowstone is complete without visiting Old Faithful Inn and the Old Faithful Geyser, that erupts every 35 to 120 minutes with a certain amount of predictability. They're as much a symbol of Yellowstone as the bison; sure, you can visit America's favorite log building but if you can, try to stay in this ultimate log cabin.

On our first visit to Yellowstone NP years ago, I fell in love with Old Faithful Inn and vowed to stay here one day. So it was the first property I reserved and planned the rest of our trip around it. By checking the reservation system at least twice a week for months, I picked up two consecutive days in the original section of the hotel called Old House.

Was that a lot of trouble--Yes. Is it worth it--Absolutely. At that moment when we drive up and I see Old Faithful Inn--standing tall after earthquakes and epic wildfires--I knew my effort was not in vane. I had to share this experience with my kids.

My youngest taking it all in for the first time.

Walking through the pair of red doors into the towering lobby, I experience all the wonder with my kids. It's an amazing log cabin structure that was conceived and built by a relatively unknown 29-year old architect, Robert Reamer, over a hundred years ago. It is awe-inspiring.

The building is such an innovation that it gave rise to a new architectural style, National Park Service Rustic--most of the building materials were harvested within the park or constructed on site during the winter of 1903-1904. This gives Old Faithful Inn its irreplaceable organic feeling that got it named one of the 150 favorite buildings in the US by American Institute of Architects.

I check in for our two-night stay and the Old Faithful Inn staff greets me with the epitome of western hospitality. After leaving our luggage with the bell hop to place in our room when it's ready, the carful of kids head out to explore the area.

Old Faithful Geyser always draws a crowd.

Our first stop is the Old Faithful Geyser for its next scheduled eruption, park rangers are really good at estimating the time, and it's a must. Afterwards the carful of kids walk over to the Old Faithful Visitor Education Center to learn more about what goes on under the surface and to grab the Yellowstone Junior Ranger Booklets, $ 3 each at the bookstore.

Yellowstone NP also offers a Young Scientist Patch Program, the booklet is $ 5 and you can check out a pack full of equipment needed to conduct experiments. This is an excellent activity if you will be in the Old Faithful Area for a couple of days to finish the program.

Morning Glory Pool, one of my favorite pools in the Upper Geyser Basin.
I grab an Old Faithful Trail Guide to guide us through Upper Geyser Basin; our destination, Morning Glory Pool, a 2.8 mile walk roundtrip from the visitors center. This is great for families as the trail is paved or on wooden boardwalks--you pass the Castle Geyser and Grand Geyser along with many pools.

The Upper Geyser Basin along the Firehole River is a great introduction to the geothermal activity that Yellowstone is renowned. To keep this area for future generations, please follow all signs and stay on the trail.

Outside the Old Faithful General Store where you'll find food and souvenirs.

Nothing like a three-mile hike to get the carful of kids hungry, we stop by the Old Faithful General Store for lunch. This original log structure serves typical family-friendly food along with restrooms and souvenirs. A gas station is next door with ice and groceries too.

So glamorous, the vintage buses of Yellowstone.
The carful of kids feel refreshed after lunch and a Huckleberry Shake; good thing, we have an excursion planned for this afternoon that I reserved before our trip. I booked a tour of Fire Hole Basin on one of the 1937 yellow tour buses.

The Geyser Gazer Tour ( $ 26/ adults and $ 13/ kids 3 to 11) departs from the lobby of the Old Faithful Inn at 4:15 and takes us on an hour and a half long educational tour along Fire Hole Lake Drive. Our tour guide, Steve, is great and riding around in one of the remaining eight restored buses is a hoot--as much attention as the bus gets, you feel like you're riding with a celebrity.

Heading up the stairs to our room at Old Faithful Inn

After our tour, we decide to check out our room on the second floor so up the stairs we go. The details in the Old Faithful Inn make it a special place and even the room numbers were handmade during the recent renovation.

Our cozy room for the next two days, complete with a sink and vanity.
The room is a great place to sleep and change clothes, you won't find any entertainment included and my carful of kids are officially unplugged for our trip through Yellowstone. Data is hard to find and slow, Wi-Fi is scare and overloaded--take your pictures and forget about posting.

Our room is located just off the second floor mezzanine where there is plenty of seating for relaxing or reading. We grab a couple of drinks at the coffee bar and head out on the balcony overlooking Old Faithful, it's about to erupt again.

Watching Old Faithful erupt from the balcony of the Old Faithful Inn.

The second floor balcony is a great area with rows of benches for geyser watching and tables for sipping and socializing. The carful of kids pull out some cards and start playing a game--I won't lie, it's nice when your kids can entertain themselves.

Looking down into the Old Faithful Dining Room, 
After relaxing for a few minutes, it's time for dinner at the Old Faithful Dining Room. The dining room is casual enough that you can wear your hiking boots while enjoying seasonal entrees; they feature a children's menu as well.

I love the OFI china.
The carful of kids enjoy dinner and the waitstaff is efficient and friendly; we finish it off with a trio of seasonal ice creams that the kids inhale. After dinner we head back up to the second-floor mezzanine where a violinist entertains the hotel guests.

During the day, the Old Faithful Inn is quite contested but after dark the crowd dies down. The kids grab their bananagrams for family game night--Yellowstone style, on an historic gaming table.

The carful of kids enjoy sitting on the second-floor mezzanine, playing games.

Before you know it, the violinist is packing up and the guests start to retreat to their rooms. The carful of kids make their way to the bathrooms down the hall before calling it a night. We have another full day exploring the wonders around Old Faithful Inn.

This is the shared bathroom in the Old House of Old Faithful Inn.

Know before you go: I reserved an Old House Room with a shared bath for a reasonable $ 115 a night--yes there isn't a bathroom in this room but the facilities are amazing and right down the hall. A sink with a mirror and vanity is located in the room so you can brush your teeth and wash your face.

There are no televisions or radios in the OFI rooms but there are outlets to plug in your phone, though service is spotty throughout Yellowstone NP.

The reservations for the lodging within the National Park System is available 13 months in advance; during the high season you have to be persistent to get rooms at the more popular locations within Yellowstone NP. I was and got all the properties I wanted--MAKE RESERVATIONS months in advance, even for camping, if you are visiting Yellowstone NP during the high season.

Old Faithful Inn dinner reservations are recommended for the best times. Breakfast and Lunch are open-seating.

Up Next: Another day exploring the Old Faithful Inn Area and Madison Junction.





Thursday, October 15, 2015

Montana Bound--Gateway to Yellowstone

Saying goodbye to the Parks Canada oTENTiks! Maybe we'll see you again next year.
As much as we loved our time in the Canadian Rockies, it's time to head back--the long way of course. The carful of kids have seen some of the most unbelievably pristine scenery in North America and it's really hard to leave but we have our hearts set on exploring one of my favorite national parks of all time.

The carful of kids wake up to find that a rain shower has settled in on our campsite and my best friend and navigator and I pack up the SUV in the rain. Not fun but someone has to do it--the upside is now we get to have breakfast out since cooking is not allowed in the oTENTik.

After spending the night in a Parks Canada oTENTik in Kootenay National Park's Redstreak Campground, we enjoy the hot showers before finding a local place for breakfast. Fire'D ( 4935 Highway 95 in Radium Springs ) serves up huge plates of french toast that the kids devour while Mom refuels her coffee tank.

A cloudy and rainy start to our day but look at the cool clouds we find on the road.

We will be crossing over the United States Border at Roosville, British Columbia, 140 miles south--it will take up about two and a half hours to get there. The driving is easy but we miss the majestic scenery of the Canadian Rockies.

Before you know it we see a sign for Duty-Free. So we stop the SUV to buy liquor and use their bathrooms plus the kids have never been in a Duty-Free store. We also dump everything that they won't let us bring back in the United States--like fresh fruits and vegetables; check the US Customs and Border Protection website at cbp.gov for all prohibited items.

I pulled together a folder full of documentation for crossing the border, at home I left a similar folder with copies of all the information for Dad as well, just in case. The carful of kids have passport cards, there are inexpensive ($40) and good for five years. Passport cards are good for land and sea travel only into Canada, Mexico, the Caribbean and Bermuda. 

Items I carry in my travel folder:

  • Passports and Passport cards and a copy of Melissa's passport (just in case).
  • Notarized letter of consent--see below.
  • Copies of the kids' birth certificates--I left the originals at home. 
  • A copy of our itinerary which includes the addresses of hotels and campgrounds plus their reservation numbers.
  • A copy of our car insurance. If your state issues a paper car registration add that as well. 

The notarized letter of consent:

  • A statement from my husband stating he is a legal guardian of our kids with their full names, dates of birth, and passport numbers.
  • The full names and addresses of the people the kids are traveling with (Melissa and myself) along our passport numbers and dates of birth. 
  • The dates we are traveling and when we will return.
  • His contact information.
  • His signature.
  • Notary stamp and signature.

I took pictures of everyone's passport and texted those to my husband and my best friend and traveling companion. As we learned on last summer's road trip, sometimes things go off schedule. 

We have no problems getting across the US/Canadian border even with a SUV full of road tripping gear. Our day is not over yet--we need to get to Belgrade, Montana 375 miles away to meet Dad who is flying in for the remainder of our trip.

Sometimes you spend the day driving not expecting much and you run into a road trip jewel. We start to see Fresh Cherries signs up and down the highway around Flathead Lake in Northern Montana. It seems Flathead Lake provides a microclimate that allows cherry trees to produce.


The carful of kids love cherries so we have stop at a cherry stand to load up on the ultimate road trip snack--fresh cherries. We find a cute stand just west of Flathead Lake at 22656 Northaire Lane in Rollins, Montana, where we meet Donnie of Donnie's Cherry Stand.

What kid doesn't like cherries?

Donnie Slaten-Underwood and her husband Jeff Underwood have a small orchard of 30-year old cherry trees that they named after favorite family members. We sample their just picked cherries before heading to the orchard to see some still on the tree.


In the orchard behind Donnie's Cherry Stand, we are loving this.

The carful of kids are running around like goons because we can't grow cherries in Texas where we live. I have to pick up some Cherry Jam that Donnie makes so I can remember her cherries when I get home. 

We grab two pounds of their hand-picked cherries for the road and say goodbye to Donnie and Jeff as we happily munch cherries all the way across Montana.  Our official next stop is Belgrade and Bozeman, where the carful of kids get a new navigator, Dad, for the next leg of our trip.

The carful of kids will be venturing into Yellowstone National Park for over a week and I seriously need to restock the road trip pantry. This area is great for that--the airport might be small but my husband was able to get a flight late so he didn't have to waste a vacation day traveling.

There is everything you would need for an extended outdoor expedition in between the two towns--the big box stores and the local and specialty shops. The shopping for food and sundries is also extensive so if you are planning a trip to Yellowstone, consider starting your trip from the northern entrance.

I did and it's definitely easier and less crowded.

Know before you go: The oTENTiks ( $120/CAN per night, no minimum stay required, no cleaning deposit) are in high demand and can be reserved starting in January through the Parks Canada website.

Each oTENTik is structurally the same and is equipped with an outdoor picnic table. Inside, you will find a table with four chairs and platform sleeping area equipped with foam mattresses--you can sleep six and the carful of kids throw their sleeping bags and pillows on top. There are some differences from park to park, like some have electricity and some don't, so check the Parks Canada website.

Cherry Season in Montana depends on the weather but most likely in the later part of July.

Up Next: Yellowstone National Park

Wednesday, October 14, 2015

On Top of the World in Jasper National Park

The Raven Totem Pole outside the historic Jasper Train Station 

The carful of kids are on the top of the world having driven close to 2,500 miles from our home is Central Texas to reach Jasper National Park. We have stopped in some amazing national parks along the way like Devils Tower, Glacier, Waterton Lakes, Banff and the Icefields Parkway.

The carful of kids love cabins so I reserved Parks Canada's oTENTiks for our entire stay in the Canadian Rocky Mountains. They are rustic enough for the kids to love them but easy enough for a Mom to manage and I love having a roof in case of a stray mountain shower.

That is a bear trap--we don't see these in Texas.
When we arrive at Whistlers Campground in Jasper National Park and I spot a homemade-looking bear trap. I ask the park rangers about the contraption and they inform us that elk use the campground to calf--have their young, and that attracts bear looking to eat.

Wow. So it really doesn't matter how bare of a campsite I have because the bear are chasing baby elk amongst the campsites. Well, this mamma can't let her preteen boys out of her sight--they have more bark than bite and I don't want my babies getting caught up in some circle of life struggle.

In the oTENTik area of the campground we find a restroom nearby with hot water for dishwashing outside though the showers are a drive away, especially with the bear situation.

Elk graze through the campground, choosing this area to have their young.

The carful of kids enjoy a bear-free night in our oTENTik but when my best friend and nativagator hears something scratching on the outside, I walk towards the door ready to defend my carful of kids. What we find is an adult female elk scratching her head on the frame of our oTENTik.

Of course this gets the carful of kids up and out of their sleeping bags. The elk meander from one campsite to another nibbling on grass. The boys are especially impressed by the close proximity of the huge animals that can weigh as much as 500 pounds.

Jasper National Park Visitors Center
After breakfast and packing up, we stop by the Jasper National Park Visitors Center to turn in the Parks Canada Xplorer Booklets for a collectible dog tag, definitely worth a stop. This is a quaint town that has a lot to offer without the constant hum of idling tour buses.

Jasper is an important stop on Canadian National Mainline and the Jasper Heritage Railway Station is still serviced by passenger trains several times a week. The original depot was destroyed by fire and the present building was constructed in 1924.

Inside the Jasper Heritage Railway Station, I love old train stations.
The carful of kids continue exploring Jasper but I wish we had more time. Jasper National Park is rich in wildlife and incredible hiking and without the crowds of Banff and Lake Louise.

We file into the SUV and for the first time since we started our trip, we head south onto the Icefields Parkway. Our first stop is the Athbasca Falls, 20 miles south; this is a great stop with paved walkways allowing you to get super close to the magnificent power of the falls.


The carful of kids walked on the Athbasca Glacier and the river of the same name feeds the falls. They are beautiful but there are signs everywhere advising you of a certain death if you decide to climb over the fence--if the falls don't kill you, the hypothermia will.


The Mom in me has to explain this to my two boys--certain death always gets their attention, kinda like cuss words in foreign languages.

We are in Avalanche Country!
After touring the waterfalls, the carful of kids head to Bow Lake, another picturesque area along the Icefields Parkway. At Simpson's Num-Ti-Ja Lodge, we find a row of vault toilets, a luxury in the wilderness, and delightful path next to Bow Lake.

Bow Lake, an incredible spot along the Icefields Parkway,  25 miles north of Lake Louise.

Simpson's Num-Ti-Ja Lodge is a 16-room lodge built in 1950 by Jimmy Simspon, the legendary English outfitter that guided adventurers through this area in the early 1900s. This area has a great views of the Crowfoot Glacier and Bow Glacier that are part of the Wapta Icefield.

The carful of kids continue back to Lake Lousie for a quick gas stop, we drive 17 more miles south to the Highway 93 turnoff for Kootenay National Park in British Columbia. Kootenay National Parkdaily admission is $ 19.60 CAN for a family or $ 136.40 CAN for the Discovery Annual Pass ) encompasses 543 square miles and adjoins Banff National Park.

Another new Canadian Province for the Carful of Kids.

The majority of the sights along Highway 93 like the Paint Pots and Marble Canyon have adequate parking but remember your bear spray--this is grizzly country. The carful of kids need to make our way to our oTENTik site in Redstreak Campground in Kootenay Natioanal Park so we march south.

The highway is wide and well-maintained though some of the lookouts and viewpoints should only be entered from the north-bound side of Highway 93. The drive through the Sinclair Canyon is especially impressive with its shear canyon walls, hair-pin turns and heavy truck traffic.

Our next fun stop is Radium Hot Springs just inside the western boundary of Kootenay National Park; the carful of kids took a soak in the Banff Upper Hot Springs and we like this hot springs even more.

The swimming pool at Radium Hot Springs with two slides and diving board.
Radium Hot Springs is open from 9 a.m. to 11 p.m. and located at 5420 Highway 93 ( admission $ 6.40 CAN/ Adults and $ 5.40 CAN/ Kids ). This is a great family option as this is the largest hot springs pool in the Canadian Rockies with lockers and showers in the changing room.

There's plenty of room to stretch out here and enjoy your soak in the mineral rich water that ranges from 98 F to 104 F. If you have a carful of kids like I do, they have their own pool with a diving board and two slides that's a comfy 84 F--which my kids prefer. They don't understand soaking for relaxation.

Our oTENTik in Redstreak Campground
The carful of kids enjoy their swim and don't want to leave but we need to get to the campground that is on the south side of the town of Radium Hot Springs. I reserved an oTENTik for the night at the Redstreak Campground and when we arrive we are greeted by their resident big horn sheep.

This is a great campground for families conveniently located next Radium Hot Springs and if you are adventurous you can hike to the pool. The Redstreak Campground features evening interpretive programs in their amphitheater especially for kids.

Big Horn Sheep greet campers in Kootenay National Park.
There are showers within walking distance of our site but our oTENTik doesn't have electricity, not that big of a deal except to charge those phones. We are still in bear country so you have to use the bear box and keep a bare campsite but I don't see any bear traps here.

Know before you go: The oTENTiks ( $120/CAN per night, no minimum stay required, no cleaning deposit) are in high demand and can be reserved starting in January through the Parks Canada website.

Each oTENTik is structurally the same and is equipped with an outdoor picnic table. Inside, you will find a table with four chairs and platform sleeping area equipped with foam mattresses--you can sleep six and the carful of kids throw their sleeping bags and pillows on top. There are some differences from park to park, like some have electricity and some don't, so check the Parks Canada website.

If you show your receipt from another hot springs, Banff Upper Hot Springs or Miette Hot Springs, you can get a discount at Radium Hot Springs.

Up Next: Back into the USA

Wednesday, October 7, 2015

Glacier Trekking along the Icefields Parkway in Jasper National Park

The carful of kids trek across the North American continent to Jasper National Park from Texas.
The carful of kids spent a day and a half in the glorious Banff National Park marveling at the lakes and mountains of the Canadian Rockies. We are headed north now after packing up our cabin at Two Jack Lakeside in Banff National Park where we enjoyed two nights in a Parks Canada oTENTik.

The carful of kids say good-bye to Banff, in the background you see a pair of Parks Canada's Red Chairs suggesting to sit and enjoy an epic view.
The carful of kids are halfway through our road trip adventure that started in Central Texas with the goal of driving to Jasper National Park and back. I made a reservation for another oTENTik--part cabin, part platform tent, in Jasper's Whistlers Campground for the evening after we explore the scenic Icefields Parkway.

The Parks Canada's oTENTiks ( $ 120 CAN a night ) are great for families with platform beds for six people and a table with four chairs inside; though eating inside the oTENTiks is prohibited due to the wildlife encounters within Jasper National Park. The kids love them and I love that I don't have to pitch a tent after a long day of driving and exploring. Just grab the sleeping bags and cooking gear, presto--you're camping. 

Our oTENTik--kids love them and I love the roof if it rains.

After loading up our gear we catch the Trans-Canada Highway 1 North to Lake Lousie, where we stop at the Lake Louise Visitors Center to turn in the Parks Canada X'plorer booklets for a collectible dog tag that the carful of kids receive after finishing theirs. This is also a great stop to load up on supplies and gas because the Icefields Parkway is a desolate stretch of scenic highway.

Back in the SUV the carful of kids turn onto Highway 93 North or Icefields Parkway as it's commonly known--completed in 1940, it's 140 miles long and parallels the Continental Divide. You should give yourself a full day to drive to Jasper National Park especially if you stop along the way.


Along the Icefields Parkway, one of the most scenic highways in North America.
Jasper National Park ( daily admission is $ 19.60 CAN for a family or $ 136.40 CAN for the Discovery Annual Pass) is the largest national park in Canada encompassing 4,200 square miles. This park, in my opinion, is even more beautiful than Banff NP but a lot less crowded.

The mountain scenery is unmatched on the Icefields Parkway so take your time. The road is well maintained but the driving can get slow if you get behind a lumbering RV--it's a two-lane highway the majority of the way except for the occasional passing lane. 


The carful of kids stop for a photo in front of the vintage Sno-Cat, we won't be touring the Athabasca Glacier in that today.

This is farthest north the carful of kids have traveled in North America and we're all excited. There are pullouts and hikes along the Icefields Parkway but one activity not to be missed is the Columbia Icefield Glacier Discovery Centre

Columbia Icefield Glacier Discovery Centre, 80 miles from Lake Louise, is open from mid-April until mid-October for 10 a.m to 4 p.m. most days, during the summer, it's open for 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. The admission for adults is $ 54.95 CAN and for kids 6 to 15 is $ 27.50 CAN with children under five free.

I have a kid photographer posing his brother in front of the Columbia Icefield Glacier Discovery Centre.
I made reservations for this excursion before I left on vacation and I advise you to do the same. It is a very popular activity and when we arrive the huge parking lot is at capacity with cars and motor coaches. Be advised, the only way onto the Athabasca Glacier is on an organized tour through Brewster Travel or Glacier Ice Walks, a guided walking tour.

The carful of kids arrive a little early so we take advantage of the picnic tables outside the visitors center for lunch but there's a cafeteria upstairs if you prefer a hot meal. We also visit the restrooms before we get in line for our tickets, there's plenty.


You can see the Athbasca Glacier from the deck of the Discover Centre.

The tour starts at the Columbia Icefield Glacier Discovery Centre where we get our tickets to board the motor coach that takes our group across the highway to the Ice Explorer Transportation Hub. Brewster Travel, a Canadian Tour Operator, owns 22 of the 23 Ice Explorers on the earth, the other one is on Antartica transporting scientists. 


Each Ice Explorer vehicle costs 1.5 million dollars with six towering tires that cost $ 5,000 a piece. They're especially designed to transport visitors to the Athabasca Glacier, the 3.5 mile long tongue of the Columbia Icefield. The Columbia Icefield is the largest ice field in the Canadian Rocky Mountains, it's 125 square miles, but is largely hidden by the mountain peaks.


The "Happy Bus" takes us to the Ice Explorer Hub for our excursion to the Glacier.

After climbing abroad the massively cool-looking Ice Explorer, we meet Dan, our student driver--not that he's a new to driving, he's been driving the Ice Explorer for a few weeks now; he's a college student working here for the summer. He starts up the Explorer and tells us a little about her.


It's a climb up into the Ice Explorer.

She's capable of handling a 38% grade and the grade to get to Athabasca Glacier is 32%, the second steepest commercial grade in North America (the steepest is Pike's Peak Highway in Colorado). We're lucky as we have the newest Ice Explorer in the fleet and we'll get to the bottom of the hill the fastest, Dan tells us as he tries to slip her into the right gear. 

As he backs up his Explorer, he asks us to fasten our seats belts and when we reach down to get them, we realize there are no seat belts. Dan cracks a grin and laughs as he reassures us he's a professional--what kind of professional he doesn't know just yet. He has a few more years in college.


All smiles aboard the Ice Explorer, you can see in every direction.

"Just close your eyes if you get scared. That's what I'm doing," Dan tells us and the jokes keep coming.  He looks sideways and tells the first few rows of passengers that he still can't believe that they gave him the Ice Explorer to drive for the summer. 

All kidding aside, Dan maneuvers his Ice Explorer with ease as he takes us on a 3-mile journey to the midpoint of the Athabasca Glacier. He tells us how the glaciers were formed hundreds of thousands of years ago and we learn about blue ice, it's formed when the snow is compressed.


I won't lie, it's COLD but it's one of the coolest things we've done!

After a bouncy and slowing moving ride, we get to the stopping point on the Athabasca Glacier where we can get out and explore--even sampling the glacier water if we want. The carful of kids put on their gloves and their hats and climb down, we're not missing this.

As a part of the tour you have about 20 minutes to explore and that's not enough for us. The glacier terrain is rugged, fragile and treacherous all at the same time. It's an amazing opportunity and even though it's raining when we're on the glacier, we run around like crazy kids.


You feel like you're at the North Pole--the kids love the adventure!

Dan honks his horn and rounds up the stragglers before we trek back to the Ice Explorer Transportation Hub to get onboard our motor coach headed to the visitors center. The carful of kids are a little wet and a little cold so head walk upstairs for hot cocoa and coffee.


One last shot for the kids back home!
The Ice Explorer journey takes about an hour and twenty minutes roundtrip from the visitors center and it doesn't disappointIt's a signature Jasper National Park adventure and one of the few places you can tour a glacier unless you are headed to Alaska. 

You even have the opportunity to taste real Glacier water and it's AWESOME.

The carful of kids load up and continue onto the town of Jasper where we walk around and check in with the Jasper National Park Visitors Center located downtown. There are lots of services in the town of Jasper for travelers and we stop for gas and groceries before heading over to Jasper's Whistler Campground, located 3 and half miles outside of Jasper, for our campsite.


After a day of Glacier Adventuring, the carful of kids enjoy dinner at the campsite at Whistlers Campground.

Know before you go: The weather is variable from moment to moment and the carful of kids had ice cold rain on our visit but the sun was shining at the visitors center. The carful of kids layer up for the tour and I suggest taking a waterproof and fleece layer. Be sure to pack some gloves and hats and wear hiking boots or other shoes with traction--it's slushy on the glacier.

The camera didn't like the cold, wet conditions and refused to operate and the iPhone required one hand ungloved to operate. Mom's not a complainer, I just warmed up in the cafe after the tour. 

Jasper National Park has 21 oTENTiks that are reservable for 2016 season starting in January. These are highly desirable sites and fill up quickly for the summer season.

Up next: Kootenay National Park in British Columbia