Wednesday, September 30, 2015

The Lakes and Pool of Banff National Park


The carful of kids left Central Texas a week and a half ago to drive to Jasper National Park; we have made it to Banff National Park after stopping in the Black Hills area of South Dakota and Glacier National Park. Along the way we have stayed in a tipi and a cabin, but for the next several nights we will be staying in Parks Canada's oTENTiks while we explore the rugged beauty of the Canadian Rockies.

In the dead of winter I look forward to blissful summer days by researching unique places to stay during the carful of kids' summer road trips. When I get excited then I know the kids will be excited too--sometimes I venture outside of a Mom's comfort zone but the carful of kids love the unique and sometimes rugged.

The Parks Canada's oTENTiks are a great compromise of the unique yet comfortable. The oTENTiks are great for families with platform beds for six people and a table and four chairs inside, though eating inside the oTENTiks is prohibited due to the wildlife encounters within Banff National Park.


What kid doesn't want to spend the night here?

The Banff National Park oTENTik sites ( $ 120/CAN per night ) are located in the Two Jack Lakeside Campground--a quick seven mile drive from the center of Banff. It's on the shore of Two Jack Lake which is attached to Lake Minnewanka, a world away from the tour buses and crowds of the town of Banff.

The campsites at Two Jack Lakeside Campground are close together and the oTENTiks are mixed in with regular tent sites; each site comes equipped with a fire pit and bear box.There are hot showers in the rest rooms with a utility sink with hot water outside that's great for dishwashing.

Banff National Park was Canada's first national park and established in 1885; now, 5 million tourists visit it annually. The daily admission is $ 19.60 CAN for a family or $ 136.40 CAN for the Discovery Annual Pass. Pack your patience like you would pack picnic supplies because parking is a premium as I learn.

Two Jack Lake at dusk, one of the most magnificent campsites we've had.
After a quick drive to Lake Minnewanka, a couple of miles from our campsite at Two Jack Lakeside, we turn onto Bow Valley Parkway, or 1A. It's the scenic highway that runs parallel to Trans-Canada Highway 1 from Banff to Lake Louise, be advised that it's closed overnight from 8 p.m. to 8 a.m. for wildlife protection.

Our first stop along Bow Valley Parkway is Johnston Canyon created by Johnston Creek. This hike continues to two falls along a forested path then a metal catwalk attached to the canyon wall. It is shaded by towering trees and every surface is covered in verdant moss.

After hiking a little more than a half a mile, the carful of kids reach the thundering Lower Falls. It is hard to believe that the creek cut through solid limestone to carve this area. You can continue onto Upper Johnston Falls another mile along the path but the carful of kids turn back.

The Johnston Canyon area is open from dawn to dusk; it has bathrooms and a privately owned resort with a small cafe and gift shop. The carful of kids load up and drive further north for our next destination Lake Louise.

Outside the Lake Louise/Banff National Park Visitors Center; you can get the Parks Canada X'plorer booklets for all nearby parks here.
The carful of kids continue on Bow Valley Parkway for another 23 miles to reach the Lake Louise area. This area has a small grocery store, a deli, an outfitter and gas station for travelers, along with the Parks Canada Lake Louise Visitors Center.

The Lake Louise area is popular and parking is limited--very limited, unless you are a guest staying at the The Fairmount Chateau Lake Louise. When we arrive we are unable to find a spot in the parking lot and are turned away. I drive over to the Morraine Lake area only to be turn away again because of the lack of parking.

Mom might be annoyed but we have Kinder Eggs--the forbidden chocolate for American Kids.
Well, not what I wanted for the day, the carful of kids duck into a roadside picnic spot for lunch. The sandwiches are helping alleviate a mean case of hangry until I notice a raindrop on my paper napkin. Within minutes, it's pouring.

As the carful of kids sit in the car, watching our plans wash down the creek like a fallen leaf I notice the cars filing out of the Lake Lousie turn-off. I look at my best friend and traveling companion as we give each other a knowing look.

The rain is chasing people away, bet there's a parking spot, I say as she nods. The carful of kids strike gold on the second attempt to park at Lake Louise.

Lake Louise is one of the most beautiful places in the world with its opaque emerald green water that you have to see in person to believe. Above the lake is the Victoria Glacier nestled in the mountains that makes any photo postcard worthy.

It can be cloudy one moment and sunny the next.

Lake Louise is the starting point to the hidden hike-in tea houses- Lake Agnes and Plain of Six Glaciers. Lake Agnes is the closer teahouse at 4.5 miles roundtrip--a little far for the carful of kids this time.

The carful of kids take Lake Louise Lakeshore trail instead, an easy 1.25 mile hike each way to enjoy the view of the lake and the wildflowers. As we are hiking around, we see lots of hikers that are not prepared for the ever changing mountain weather--always pack a fleece and rain jacket even in the height of summer.

After a brisk walk, the carful of kids head into The Fairmount Chateau Lake Louise for a snack and a break. I find some coffee for the grown-ups, the kids find Toblerone for themselves.

Sitting with my kids in a field of poppies, LOVE.
The Chalet Lake Louise was first built in 1890 by the Canadian Pacific Railway though it has been remodeled over the years and not much remains of the original property; it's still an impressive hotel. The gardens outside the hotel are just as impressive as the interior, the Chateau Lake Louise is a popular stop on the tour bus route so it is congested during the day.

After a memorable trip along Lake Louise, the carful of kids are ready to try to get into the magnificent Moraine Lake, a little over eight miles outside of the village of Lake Louise. This is the most photographed area of Banff National Park and another popular spot without much parking, best viewed in the early morning or late afternoon.

The water is even more magnificent at Moraine Lake, some tourists ask if it is dyed.
Again, the carful of kids hit parking gold and find a spot right in front of the moraine, a large boulder pile that glaciers deposit when they started to retreat thousands of years ago. Moraine Lake was featured on the Canadian twenty dollar bill. This view is most associated with Banff National Park.

Moraine Lake is a glacial fed lake and doesn't reach capacity until mid-June. Located in the Valley of Ten Peaks, the refraction of light from the rock flour produces the brilliant turquoise color of the water. Rock flour is the silt-sized ground rock so small it's suspended in the water giving it the opaque appearance.

He's part mountain goat.
Moraine Lake is open from dawn to dusk; there's is a resort here and canoe rentals. The Rockpile Trail takes you on top of the moraine ( 80ft)--the best views are from this viewpoint.

It is hard to tear the carful of kids away from the inspiring lakes of Banff but I promised the kids I would take them swimming this evening. It's 35 miles back to the town of Banff but give yourself 45 minutes to get back; we drive back to Banff the quicker route taking Trans-Canada Highway 1.

Can't wait to get in the pool!
After ducking into a Banff city park for a picnic dinner, we head to one of the three hot springs in the Canadian Rockies--Banff Upper Hot Springs ( 1 Mountain Avenue, 2.5 miles south of Banff). Discovered in 1844, it's one of the most popular attractions in Banff and it's open from 9 a.m. to 11 p.m. The admission is $ 7.30 CAN for adults and $ 6.30 CAN for kids; you can rent a locker for an additional $ 1.00 CAN.

So this is a different experience for my carful of kids and probably the most international experience they get when they are in Canada. Canada, for the most part, is very similar to the United States and that is why this is the first country they have visited.

Banff Upper Hot Springs ranges from 98F to 104F year round.
To get to the pool you have to walk through the separate changing rooms--there isn't a family changing area. Some people are less conspicuous of their bodies and maybe the men are even more free with their bodies than the women.

I suggest to my boys they should follow me through the ladies changing room only to get vetoed instantaneously.

"OK, then meet me on the other side before you head into the water," I tell them as they vanish through the swinging doors. All they really have to do is walk through the changing room, I tell myself.

Well, when I meet up with my boys on the other side, just moments later, I greet a wide-eyed, nearly eight-year old.

"Well that was awkward!" he blurts out as the boys bust into a giggling fit and a dude passing us can't help but chuckle.

It seems the carful of kids are shocked when they see a few naked people--now let me say, it didn't see anyone doing anything inappropriate. Just changing but for my protected carful of kids it's quite cosmopolitan. So if your kids can't handle it, skip this pool--there are others that are more family friendly.

Once we get into the pool the kids notice that everyone is just sitting around taking a soak and some of the older ladies look like they don't want to get their hair wet. I have to explain that everyone here is enjoying the therapeutic benefits of the legendary mineral water and this is not the place to cannonball.

This doesn't compute for the eleven-year old.

I enjoy myself as the stress of driving 3,000 miles melts away and the kids watch me still kinda confused. After a few minutes, we decide to move on since kids can overheat in water this warm rather quickly.

The carful of kids chatter all the way back to our campsite at Two Jack Lakeside. This day won't be forgotten anytime soon, whether it's because of the majestic beauty of the Canadian Rockies or the naked people, only time will tell.  

Know before you go:  There are ten oTENTik sites at the Two Jack Lakeside Campground that are reservable for 2016 season starting in January. These are highly desirable sites and fill up  quickly for the summer season.

Johnston Canyon is one of the more popular hikes in Banff National Park so it is advised to hike in the early morning or early evening.

If you plan to hike in Lake Louise or Moraine Lake area, it's a Group Access Area meaning you have to travel in a tight group of four or more due to the heightened activity of grizzly bears. Carry and know how to use your bear spray, take your time to be observant of tracks and scat and let the bears know you are there by making noise.

Up Next: Icefields Parkway and Jasper National Park

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