Garner State Park and Lost Maples State Natural Area

Sabinal River in Lost Maples

Yesterday we finished up our visit to Big Bend National Park and spent the night in Del Rio, Texas.  From Del Rio, we will drive through the far western Texas Hill Country with stops at Garner State Park and Lost Maples State Natural Area.

Driving through the Hill Country at dawn, dusk or during the night can be treacherous with the deer--they are everywhere.  If this makes you uncomfortable, please plan accordingly.

What a difference a day makes--from mild and sunny yesterday to cold and dizzily today. This is the main reason I can't commit to tent camping at this time of year. Luckily we will be driving the majority of the day. The carful of kids wanted to check out a couple of very popular parks so we are taking the scenic route home.

Garner State Park, located on the Frio River, is a popular destination for families for generations.  Dedicated in 1941, it was a Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) park project in the 1930s. This New-Deal organization helped to put young men back to work in the depression. There are original cabins, screen shelters and 335 camp sites along the waters of the chilly Frio River.  There are paddle boats for rent, a playground and mini golf course.  The pavilion houses a grill and store and hosts weekend dances in the summer.

Garner State Park has a lot to offer but I could see how it would get crowded in the summer.  Reservations for popular weekends book up ONE year in advance.  This is NOT a park that you decide to camp on the fly expect to get a spot.  We duck into a vacant shelter for a quick lunch before we load up to check out our next park--Lost Maples.

Along our scenic byway, a beautiful vista awaits at every bend--even on a cold, dreary winter day.  The carful of kids have heard great things about Lost Maples State Natural Area so we wanted to check it out.  What a delightful place--opening to the public in 1979; it is a smaller park with just 2100 acres, this includes 30 developed campsites and 11 miles of hiking trails.  It is located on the pristine waters of the Sabinal River, southwest of Kerrville, Texas.

The carful of kids park the SUV for a quick hike--.8 miles round-trip; it will warm us up.  There are maples as well as sycamores, Bald Cypresses, walnuts and several varieties of oak; leftovers from the last ice age. We will have to come back during November when the color is at its height.

We continue driving along the scenic highways on our way to Kerrville, Texas. We drive down Texas Highway 39 through Hunt along the banks of the Guadalupe River. This area of Texas offers some spectacular scenery and should be included on your must visit list for 2015.

Up for tomorrow a West Texas Road Trip Wrap Up.

More to see in Big Bend National Park with the Carful of Kids

After several days on the road exploring West Texas, the carful of kids sleep great in our cozy cabin at Far Flung Outdoor Center. A beautiful sunrise greets us across the desert garden that flanks the cabins.

We spend a few minutes letting the kids sleep in and enjoy our coffee on the back porch. It's chilly out this morning but should warm up nicely even in the winter and the river guides are preparing for float trips.

Later, we'll trek east through Big Bend National Park--entering at  Maverick Junction and continuing to the Chisos Basin. Chisos Basin Road has several sharp, steep S-curves and isn't recommended for RVs and trailers though it's a pleasant drive and should not be missed.

The Window in Chisos Basin should not be missed.

The Chisos Basin is the hub of activity--a 60-site campground ( 26 sites are reservable ), Chisos Mountain Lodge, a Visitor Center, a store and seven trail heads. Arrive early in the day, parking is limited during the peak season.

The carful of kids check in at the visitor center and look over our hiking options. I spot the map that displays all the recent encounters with black bear and mountain lions; the kids watch the video explaining what to do if you meet one on a trail. We are prepared to hike.

Hiking along the Chisos Basin Loop Trail, great for older kids.

The carful of kids' first hike is the Window View Trail, an easy, paved .3 mile walk to a viewpoint--nice and don't miss it. The Chisos Basin Loop Trail is next, a 1.8 mile round-trip hike that's rated moderate.

The Chisos Basin Loop is good for families with older children as it gets away from the buildings but you shouldn't encounter bears or mountain loins. Though my boys insist on carrying large rocks the whole way to protect us from predators, just in case.

After a hike the carful of kids are hungry for lunch so we move on to Dugout Wells for a picnic. It's in a grove of trees that serves as an oasis in the desert.

The carful of kids head to the Rio Grande Village on the far east side of the park; but first, we need gas--the Panther Junction Visitors Center has it.

The Rio Grande Village is another hub--125 campsites, a visitors center, a store and the Mexican Border Crossing. I check with the visitors center about the conditions in Boquillas Del Carmen--an isolated village across the border.

The border crossing is closed on Monday and Tuesday.

All sounds great; passports in hand, ready to cross except--they are CLOSED. Ouch, seems like I read that somewhere. Next time, kids.

We head to Boquillas Canyon Overlook instead, where you can see the village of Boquillas Del Carmen--it's very small and isolated. On the rocks here, there are handmade souvenirs left by the villagers of Boquillas. They watch their wares from their side of the river and when a purchase has been made, they gather the money left in the jar in front of the rock.

The residents of Boquillas Del Carmen cross the Rio Grande.

While the carful of kids look at the view through binoculars, the Border Patrol drives by in an unmarked SUV and plain clothes. The boys are all eyes.

This area is also popular for backcountry camping and 4x4ing. The sun is hanging low in the sky so the carful of kids turn in their Junior Ranger booklets for a cool patch before heading out.

The National Parks of West Texas give out patches to students who complete a NPS Junior Ranger Booklet.

We need to get to Del Rio tonight so we load up and say good-bye to the Big Bend National Park for now. After visiting nearly 60 national parks in the U.S. and Canada, this one has to be one of the most beautiful.

Up next: A visit to Garner State Park and Lost Maples State Natural Area.

Big Bend National Park with the Carful of Kids

After visiting Fort Lancaster and Fort Davis on the carful of kids' week long exploration of West Texas we're headed into Big Bend National Park, 111 miles south along Texas Highway 118. After an unexpected snow in the area, we open the drapes in our room at the Indian Lodge in the Davis Mountains State Park to this view--beautiful.

The Indian Lodge at Davis Mountains State Park, built by the CCC in the 1930s.

The carful of kids marvel at the wonder of it before the snow starts to fade into the desert mountains. Next, Black Bear Restaurant located on-site, where they serve up a decent breakfast buffet before we load up.

Rolling down the road, we catch a cloud inversion.

Heading south, the carful of kids drive through Alpine, after this there is NOTHING until you get to Terlingua, so gas up. Luckily we did, because the gas station right before Big Bend National Park entrance is out of gas.

No Gas! If you see gas in West Texas, you buy gas.

The carful of kids continue into Big Bend National Park through the western entrance at Maverick Junction. Big Bend NP is open every day and the 7-day admission is $ 20 for a private vehicle or you can purchase an annual America the Beautiful Pass for $ 80 to gain entry into the majority of the national parks and monuments.

Santa Elena Canyon

At the Castolon Visitor Center, our first stop, we grab the Junior Ranger booklets and find a covered picnic table outside the 80 year-old general store and make some sandwiches. There is very little food to buy in this park so we packed lots of sandwich fixings and packed in our own water. Due to a drought and a water shortage; the park urges visitors to use less than five gallons of water per person/per day.

Looking for the perfect rock to skip on the Rio Grande.

At Santa Elena Canyon, the carful of kids reach the Rio Grande, the river that separates Texas from Mexico. It spans 1,900 miles from its origin in southern Colorado as it carves its way through rock towards the Gulf of Mexico.

In every direction is another beautiful desert landscape.

As the sun races west, the carful of kids stop at all the turn-outs and overlooks--the views are epic. Even during the busy family travel season, the park is quiet in most areas.

The carful of kids stop at all the turnouts, this one we learn about running the Rio Grande.

The lodging options in Big Bend National Park are limited, the rooms at the Chisos Mountains Lodge fill up fast during the family vacation season. There are 184 camping sites in Big Bend NP, not all of them are reservable.

After a little research, I found Far Flung Outdoor Center in Terlingua outside the western entrance of the park, they exceeded my expectations. Far Flung is a river outfitter, running river trips year-round as well as Jeep and ATV tours.

Sunset overlooking the garden at the Far Flung Outdoor Center

When we drive up after a day of exploring in Big Bend, the holiday lights on their twelve units greet us. The casitas are immaculate, well-equipped with a kitchenette, a large bathroom with a shower and  WiFi, a luxury in Big Bend.

All the units face a desert garden, full of birds and a frolicking cottontail rabbit, where you will find a couple of gas grills. In the evening they have a fire pit complete with chairs to relax and roast some marshmallows while you enjoy the incredible night sky.

After grabbing the burgers, the wine and a bag of marshmallows, we head outside to enjoy dinner under the stars. Big Bend is a designated International Dark Skies Park, so outdoor lighting is minimal. Remember your lantern or flashlight to get around safely at night.

A great ending to a great day.

Up Next: The carful of kids return to Big Bend National Park for hiking and exploring.

The Arts, The Stars and Some Snow--Marfa, Fort Davis and McDonald Observatory

The carful of kids have a lot of ground to cover after driving in from Central Texas. After waking up in Alpine we're off to Marfa and Fort Davis then ending the day at the Davis Mountains State Park.

The weather is much colder than originally forecasted so a quick stop to pick up some hand warmers.  The carful of kids will be outside and the high is forecasted to be 44ºF. It's 28 miles west to Marfa on US Highway 67 from Alpine and along the way you pass the Marfa Lights Viewing Station. 

Marfa, the art town of West Texas

The town of Marfa is home to about 2000 people and it is the county seat for Presidio County. It started as a water stop then evolved into a military training area, now it's an art town--home to galleries, museums and movie sets. The most notable being Donald Judd's Chinati Foundation, located at 1 Cavalry Row.

The carful of kids love art like every other kid so we prefer outdoor installations and we make it quick. Chinati works, we walk the path with 15 untitled concrete blocks where the kids can run and there is no charge for admission. Inside the repurposed artillery sheds are 100 of his works in mill aluminum, they are open a 2 p.m., so we look in the windows instead.

The carful of kids take a break from art and head to check out the Hotel Paisano, located on 207 Highland Street. Built in 1930, it is a National Registered Historic Place; Elizabeth Taylor, James Dean and Rock Hudson stayed here during the filming of The Giant. A quick stop for the carful of kids but it would be a lovely place to stay without the kids.

One last art stop--John Chamberlain's installation at the former Wool and Mohair Building in the center of town is just blocks away from the Hotel Paisano. This is an art hit with the carful of kids--large, free-standing sculptures of mashed-up cars (I apologize to all my art history professors including my mother for my description).  Again, we make it quick and don't over think it.

Final words on Marfa, there are a ton of galleries but they seem to operate on West Texas Time-- most are closed over the Christmas Holidays. Marfa is a cool, little town but it is crawling with hipsters and over-dressed art enthusiasts. So if this bothers you, move on. If not, you can make it into a three-day art adventure, including stays at hip hotels.

Not too cold for Ice Cream.

Fort Davis of Kids

The carful of kids need to change gears, we head north on Texas Highway 17 to Fort Davis, where we will spend the rest of our day. Our first stop is the Fort Davis Drug Store, located on 13 State Street, for lunch and their old-fashioned soda fountain. Good kid fare and a quick stop to warm up--it is snowing now.

Up the road is the Fort Davis National Historic Site (101 Lt. Henry Flipper Drive) where the carful of kids earn another NPS Junior Ranger badge. Though you have to budget a couple of hours to complete the requirements, they are well worth it and interesting for the adults as well.

Yesterday, we were at Fort Lancaster to tour the foundations of the former fort, so this is a great teaching moment. Fort Davis is intact, the majority of the buildings have been preserved. It is also on the old San Antonio-El Paso Road.

The carful of kids get a real feel for fort life, there are trumpet calls and many of the buildings are furnished. The boys love it, running around looking at guns and cannons then imagining encounters with the Apache.

Davis Mountains State Park 

Before our final activity of the day, the carful of kids check into the Indian Lodge, located in the Davis Mountains State Park, just 5 miles away from Fort Davis on Texas Highway 118. I reserved this room months in advance and our trip is routed around its availability.

The Indian Lodge was constructed by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) in the 1930's, if you have the opportunity to visit a CCC constructed site, DO. They are exceptional properties.

The rooms are comfortable, spacious and reasonable with all the original details including furniture made on-site. The original building and the 1967 addition blend seamlessly, the carful of kids are staying in a newer room. There is a restaurant and pool on site, both exceed my expectations for a state park. Traditional camping is available also.

That's snow!

McDonald Observatory's Star Party

Looking out the window, the flakes are getting fatter. Fun but not the best for the carful of kids' next destination--the McDonald Observatory, located at 3640 Dark Sky Drive, 12 miles north on Texas Highway 118.  The carful of kids have tickets to the Twilight Program and the Star Party for this evening.

I swear my kids have faces.

When we arrive at the McDonald Observatory, the program has been moved inside due to the weather.  The astronomers offer a series of talks and demonstrations on our solar system and nearby stars. Typically though, visitors gaze at the stars through their collection of telescopes. This is a popular attraction with many visitors, plan according, especially during school breaks.

After close to four hours inside the McDonald Observatory, this is what I find--six inches of snow on the ground and the SUV. I look at the carful of kids and announce, "Is now the time to tell you I'm not the best at driving in the snow, in the dark, down a mountain road."

The usual chatter died.

Up Next: Big Bend National Park and a cabin camping in Terlingua.

Destination West Texas: Abandoned Forts and Marfa Lights

It's a system.

Christmas break road trips are great IF you plan ahead.  This year I was too busy facilitating Christmas to remember I had a trip to pack for; so I spent Christmas Day packing up the car for a trip out to West Texas.

My travel companion and best friend for 30 years, Melissa--check.
Sandwich fixings for six days in the cooler--check.
A box of basic camping equipment--check.
A medicine cabinet in one big Ziplock bag(just in case)--check.
Kleenex, wet wipes, hand sanitizer--check, check, check.
Lots of road trip snacks--check.

All loaded in the back of the SUV.

Ready to go and on the road at 8 a.m. as the carful of kids aim the SUV west, rolling across the Texas Hill Country towards Junction, on State Highway 29.  Our final destination for the day, Alpine, deep in the heart of far West Texas, is just beyond the horizon.

A couple of hours into the drive we're ready for some pancakes so our first stop is Storm's Drive-In in Burnet--a local breakfast and burger joint in operation since 1950. According the locals, they also serve up a juicy cheeseburger if you driving through after breakfast.

Outside of Junction we merge onto I-10 and thanks to the 80 mph speed limit, the miles start to rip by.  Our next stop, Fort Lancaster State Historic Site, is between Ozona and Sheffield, off State Highway 290 West which loops back to I-10.

Fort Lancaster State Historic Site is one the forts that protected pioneers along the San Antonio-El Paso Road. All that remains today are the foundations of the old buildings yet this site has lots to offer.

Golf Cart Full of Kids Selfie

Did I tell you they have a golf cart you can borrow to check out the fort?

Suddenly the carful of kids HAVE to see every last building foundation. There's also a covered picnic area where we make lunch--kids love a picnic.  Next time, add historical sites to your itinerary, more memorable than a fast-food restaurant along the interstate.

An hour or so later the carful of kids are back on the road and headed west. Next up, we stop in Fort Stockton, the largest town in-between San Antonio and El Paso, for last-minute gas and groceries.

There's a rule when driving in West Texas, if you see gas--buy gas, you just never know when you will see it again. They have a Wal-mart which will be the last one for days so if you forgot it and need it--get it in Fort Stockton or go without.

Alpine is the county seat for Brewster county and home to Sul Ross State University and the largest town in Far West Texas. We had arranged a room here with points at the Best Western Alpine Inn--gotta love a free room with breakfast. After getting into town, we stopped by a diner for a quick bite.

Next stop is the Marfa Lights, a West Texas legend--the viewing station is 18 miles west of Alpine on US Highway 67. There's parking off the highway with a nice viewing area complete with telescopes and bathrooms.

A trip out to West Texas isn't complete without staring into the dark for the mysterious lights on the horizon. It's really dark and in the winter, it's really COLD.

This ends our first day of mainly driving to our destination but even that can be part of road trip fun.

Know before you go: If forts aren't your thing then you can check out the Caverns of Sonora, conveniently located along I-10 in Sonora, Texas, 186 miles northwest from San Antonio.

Up Next: Marfa and Fort Davis.

West Texas Road Trip with the Carful of Kids

Can you call yourself a Texan without a trip to West Texas--Big Bend in particular? I have spent 40 years living here; I was born here, educated here but had never made the pilgrimage. It might be time to check it out.

The carful of kids usually take a ski trip over the Christmas holidays but we couldn't make a go of it this year.  We didn't have many days left--trips to both sets of grandparents were promised and on the calendar.

Not to be discouraged, I pulled out my handy atlas that I have been toting around since 1994.  Looking over the pages, nothing seemed to excite me until I flipped the page to West Texas. Taking a few minutes, I scanned it--Fort Davis, Marfa, Big Bend. Maybe.

Whipping out the laptop, I started checking around.  Looked like enough to keep the carful of kids entertained for several days with wide-open spaces and plenty of sunshine.  I'd pitch the idea to the kids at dinner.

Idea pitched and accepted. A little research, a few emails and a couple of phone calls, I had an itinerary pulled together. The carful of kids had driven through West Texas on our way to other places but this would be the first time we turned off I-10 headed for the border.


Day 1--

Drive to West Texas Region from our home in Central Texas.

Grab a bite to eat at Storm's in Burnet, TX

Stop at Fort Lancaster south of Sheffield, TX along I-10

Check out those Marfa Lights

Spend the night in Alpine, TX

Day 2--

Drive on to Marfa and check out the art scene--Chinati in particular

Stop at Fort Lancaster National Historic Site earn a Junior Ranger Badge

Maybe something to eat at Fort Davis Drug Store

Check out the night sky at McDonald Observatory for their star party

Spend the night at the Indian Lodge in Fort Davis State Park

Day 3--

Drive to Big Bend National Park earn a Junior Ranger Badge

Spend the night in Terlingua, TX in a cozy cabin

Day 4--

Another day in Big Bend to explore and hike

Spend the night in Del Rio, TX

Day 5--

Head east through the Texas Hill Country stopping at Garner State Park and Lost Maples State Park

Spend the night in Kerrville, TX

Day 6--

Stop in Fredericksburg

Grab a bite at the Nutty Brown Cafe in South Austin

Home

NOTE--All this planning was done several months before our trip due to its timing and the popularity of the places we visited.

Up Next: Day 1 Fort Lancaster

Sledding at the Big Tesuque Campground in the Santa Fe National Forest

On the final day in Santa Fe, the carful of kids decide that they want to play in the snow. We have hauled the Radio Flyer sled, LL Bean toboggan and a Sno-baller from Texas and we are determined to use them.

I know there is a small parking area down the mountain from Ski Santa Fe and decide to try there.  It's the Big Tesuque Campground in the Santa Fe National Forest on Highway 475, 12 miles from downtown Santa Fe.

Racing down the hill in the Big Tesuque Campground in the Santa Fe National Forest

The carful of kids are pleasantly surprised when we get here. There's a vault toilet that is still open--a nice bonus when you are traveling with a carful of kids and a picnic table that is not completely covered in snow plus some trashcans. I have everything we need for a day of snow play and a snow picnic!

Remember the carful of kids are from Central Texas, we don't get snow like this. It's white, fluffy and covers everything in sight--it's kid magic. My carful of kids can play for hours in near freezing temperatures with no whining!

We spend a lot of time in the snow, water proofing helps keep us dirty.

The first thing the carful of kids do is try our hand at sledding. The kids don't even balk when I make them put on their helmets--we are in a grove of trees and I don't want any head injuries.

Off they head down the hill, with glee on their faces; first trying the sled and then the toboggan.  According to our non-scientific study, the sled is faster, the toboggan is more comfortable with its padding.

I give sledding a try and it is FUN!

My daughter lies down and samples some snow.

After a few good runs, I head to the SUV and pull out the picnic supplies. The picnic table is in the sun so I make some peanut butter sandwiches, chips and cookies for lunch.

The carful of kids are full but a little cold now; that's when I hand out the hand and toe warmers. Problem solved, we are good to go for another hour or so.

There are other children sledding but they are wet, cold, and whining. Not us--we have on our ski pants, snow boots, hats, scarves and good water-repellent gloves, not to mention the layers of clothes on underneath. The carful of kids hate to be cold.

We have a great day playing in the snow and with a little planning, you can too. Did I mention that the Santa Fe National Forest area is FREE!