Wednesday, September 30, 2015

The Lakes and Pool of Banff National Park


The carful of kids left Central Texas a week and a half ago to drive to Jasper National Park; we have made it to Banff National Park after stopping in the Black Hills area of South Dakota and Glacier National Park. Along the way we have stayed in a tipi and a cabin, but for the next several nights we will be staying in Parks Canada's oTENTiks while we explore the rugged beauty of the Canadian Rockies.

In the dead of winter I look forward to blissful summer days by researching unique places to stay during the carful of kids' summer road trips. When I get excited then I know the kids will be excited too--sometimes I venture outside of a Mom's comfort zone but the carful of kids love the unique and sometimes rugged.

The Parks Canada's oTENTiks are a great compromise of the unique yet comfortable. The oTENTiks are great for families with platform beds for six people and a table and four chairs inside, though eating inside the oTENTiks is prohibited due to the wildlife encounters within Banff National Park.


What kid doesn't want to spend the night here?

The Banff National Park oTENTik sites ( $ 120/CAN per night ) are located in the Two Jack Lakeside Campground--a quick seven mile drive from the center of Banff. It's on the shore of Two Jack Lake which is attached to Lake Minnewanka, a world away from the tour buses and crowds of the town of Banff.

The campsites at Two Jack Lakeside Campground are close together and the oTENTiks are mixed in with regular tent sites; each site comes equipped with a fire pit and bear box.There are hot showers in the rest rooms with a utility sink with hot water outside that's great for dishwashing.

Banff National Park was Canada's first national park and established in 1885; now, 5 million tourists visit it annually. The daily admission is $ 19.60 CAN for a family or $ 136.40 CAN for the Discovery Annual Pass. Pack your patience like you would pack picnic supplies because parking is a premium as I learn.

Two Jack Lake at dusk, one of the most magnificent campsites we've had.
After a quick drive to Lake Minnewanka, a couple of miles from our campsite at Two Jack Lakeside, we turn onto Bow Valley Parkway, or 1A. It's the scenic highway that runs parallel to Trans-Canada Highway 1 from Banff to Lake Louise, be advised that it's closed overnight from 8 p.m. to 8 a.m. for wildlife protection.

Our first stop along Bow Valley Parkway is Johnston Canyon created by Johnston Creek. This hike continues to two falls along a forested path then a metal catwalk attached to the canyon wall. It is shaded by towering trees and every surface is covered in verdant moss.

After hiking a little more than a half a mile, the carful of kids reach the thundering Lower Falls. It is hard to believe that the creek cut through solid limestone to carve this area. You can continue onto Upper Johnston Falls another mile along the path but the carful of kids turn back.

The Johnston Canyon area is open from dawn to dusk; it has bathrooms and a privately owned resort with a small cafe and gift shop. The carful of kids load up and drive further north for our next destination Lake Louise.

Outside the Lake Louise/Banff National Park Visitors Center; you can get the Parks Canada X'plorer booklets for all nearby parks here.
The carful of kids continue on Bow Valley Parkway for another 23 miles to reach the Lake Louise area. This area has a small grocery store, a deli, an outfitter and gas station for travelers, along with the Parks Canada Lake Louise Visitors Center.

The Lake Louise area is popular and parking is limited--very limited, unless you are a guest staying at the The Fairmount Chateau Lake Louise. When we arrive we are unable to find a spot in the parking lot and are turned away. I drive over to the Morraine Lake area only to be turn away again because of the lack of parking.

Mom might be annoyed but we have Kinder Eggs--the forbidden chocolate for American Kids.
Well, not what I wanted for the day, the carful of kids duck into a roadside picnic spot for lunch. The sandwiches are helping alleviate a mean case of hangry until I notice a raindrop on my paper napkin. Within minutes, it's pouring.

As the carful of kids sit in the car, watching our plans wash down the creek like a fallen leaf I notice the cars filing out of the Lake Lousie turn-off. I look at my best friend and traveling companion as we give each other a knowing look.

The rain is chasing people away, bet there's a parking spot, I say as she nods. The carful of kids strike gold on the second attempt to park at Lake Louise.

Lake Louise is one of the most beautiful places in the world with its opaque emerald green water that you have to see in person to believe. Above the lake is the Victoria Glacier nestled in the mountains that makes any photo postcard worthy.

It can be cloudy one moment and sunny the next.

Lake Louise is the starting point to the hidden hike-in tea houses- Lake Agnes and Plain of Six Glaciers. Lake Agnes is the closer teahouse at 4.5 miles roundtrip--a little far for the carful of kids this time.

The carful of kids take Lake Louise Lakeshore trail instead, an easy 1.25 mile hike each way to enjoy the view of the lake and the wildflowers. As we are hiking around, we see lots of hikers that are not prepared for the ever changing mountain weather--always pack a fleece and rain jacket even in the height of summer.

After a brisk walk, the carful of kids head into The Fairmount Chateau Lake Louise for a snack and a break. I find some coffee for the grown-ups, the kids find Toblerone for themselves.

Sitting with my kids in a field of poppies, LOVE.
The Chalet Lake Louise was first built in 1890 by the Canadian Pacific Railway though it has been remodeled over the years and not much remains of the original property; it's still an impressive hotel. The gardens outside the hotel are just as impressive as the interior, the Chateau Lake Louise is a popular stop on the tour bus route so it is congested during the day.

After a memorable trip along Lake Louise, the carful of kids are ready to try to get into the magnificent Moraine Lake, a little over eight miles outside of the village of Lake Louise. This is the most photographed area of Banff National Park and another popular spot without much parking, best viewed in the early morning or late afternoon.

The water is even more magnificent at Moraine Lake, some tourists ask if it is dyed.
Again, the carful of kids hit parking gold and find a spot right in front of the moraine, a large boulder pile that glaciers deposit when they started to retreat thousands of years ago. Moraine Lake was featured on the Canadian twenty dollar bill. This view is most associated with Banff National Park.

Moraine Lake is a glacial fed lake and doesn't reach capacity until mid-June. Located in the Valley of Ten Peaks, the refraction of light from the rock flour produces the brilliant turquoise color of the water. Rock flour is the silt-sized ground rock so small it's suspended in the water giving it the opaque appearance.

He's part mountain goat.
Moraine Lake is open from dawn to dusk; there's is a resort here and canoe rentals. The Rockpile Trail takes you on top of the moraine ( 80ft)--the best views are from this viewpoint.

It is hard to tear the carful of kids away from the inspiring lakes of Banff but I promised the kids I would take them swimming this evening. It's 35 miles back to the town of Banff but give yourself 45 minutes to get back; we drive back to Banff the quicker route taking Trans-Canada Highway 1.

Can't wait to get in the pool!
After ducking into a Banff city park for a picnic dinner, we head to one of the three hot springs in the Canadian Rockies--Banff Upper Hot Springs ( 1 Mountain Avenue, 2.5 miles south of Banff). Discovered in 1844, it's one of the most popular attractions in Banff and it's open from 9 a.m. to 11 p.m. The admission is $ 7.30 CAN for adults and $ 6.30 CAN for kids; you can rent a locker for an additional $ 1.00 CAN.

So this is a different experience for my carful of kids and probably the most international experience they get when they are in Canada. Canada, for the most part, is very similar to the United States and that is why this is the first country they have visited.

Banff Upper Hot Springs ranges from 98F to 104F year round.
To get to the pool you have to walk through the separate changing rooms--there isn't a family changing area. Some people are less conspicuous of their bodies and maybe the men are even more free with their bodies than the women.

I suggest to my boys they should follow me through the ladies changing room only to get vetoed instantaneously.

"OK, then meet me on the other side before you head into the water," I tell them as they vanish through the swinging doors. All they really have to do is walk through the changing room, I tell myself.

Well, when I meet up with my boys on the other side, just moments later, I greet a wide-eyed, nearly eight-year old.

"Well that was awkward!" he blurts out as the boys bust into a giggling fit and a dude passing us can't help but chuckle.

It seems the carful of kids are shocked when they see a few naked people--now let me say, it didn't see anyone doing anything inappropriate. Just changing but for my protected carful of kids it's quite cosmopolitan. So if your kids can't handle it, skip this pool--there are others that are more family friendly.

Once we get into the pool the kids notice that everyone is just sitting around taking a soak and some of the older ladies look like they don't want to get their hair wet. I have to explain that everyone here is enjoying the therapeutic benefits of the legendary mineral water and this is not the place to cannonball.

This doesn't compute for the eleven-year old.

I enjoy myself as the stress of driving 3,000 miles melts away and the kids watch me still kinda confused. After a few minutes, we decide to move on since kids can overheat in water this warm rather quickly.

The carful of kids chatter all the way back to our campsite at Two Jack Lakeside. This day won't be forgotten anytime soon, whether it's because of the majestic beauty of the Canadian Rockies or the naked people, only time will tell.  

Know before you go:  There are ten oTENTik sites at the Two Jack Lakeside Campground that are reservable for 2016 season starting in January. These are highly desirable sites and fill up  quickly for the summer season.

Johnston Canyon is one of the more popular hikes in Banff National Park so it is advised to hike in the early morning or early evening.

If you plan to hike in Lake Louise or Moraine Lake area, it's a Group Access Area meaning you have to travel in a tight group of four or more due to the heightened activity of grizzly bears. Carry and know how to use your bear spray, take your time to be observant of tracks and scat and let the bears know you are there by making noise.

Up Next: Icefields Parkway and Jasper National Park

Friday, September 25, 2015

Banff National Park--Unbelievable Jewel of the Canadian Rockies

What kid doesn't want to sleep in an authentic Blackfoot Tipi?
The carful of kids stir as the light falls in from the top of our tipi in Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park, we have lots of plans for today but I can't think about that right now. All I'm thinking about is the deflated air mattress that I'm laying on right now.

We all have those nights when the sleeping is interrupted and shallow, those nights that sunrise can't happen fast enough. The best thing you can do is get up, shake it off and have a cup of coffee.

The view from my sleeping bag, the sleeping could have been better but it's definitely something we'll remember for a while.

My best friend and traveling companion and I climb out of our sleeping bags and start on breakfast. The smell of food lures the carful of kids from their sleeping bags and we look up to find them poking their heads out of the tipi.

After we have the camping gear loaded back in the SUV we decide to venture around the camp ground to explore a mountain brook that runs next to it. The carful of kids hike through the cover of fir trees, traipse down the embankment, across the banks full of tumbled river rocks to the shallow, pristine mountain brook.

At the Crandell Mountain Campground, close to town but feels miles away.
The girls decide the water looks too inviting so we stick our feet in, good thing we wore our water shoes. The boys stay on the bank skipping rocks since they didn't put on their water shoes this morning like I asked.

The mountain water in Canada is refreshing and after a bit it really starts to tingle the feet. So revitalizing, it wakes us up more than the coffee. We squeal happily and splash through the brook until Melissa blurts out, "I see movement."

Well you don't have to tell me twice--I grab a couple of boys by the backs of their shirts, who have more mouth than sense, drag them across the tumbled river rock, push them up the embankment and through the cover of fir trees. When we reach safety, I turn around hoping to see my daughter and best friend behind me and not a man-eating wolverine.

The boys are ready to defend us with rocks and pebbles and have a hard time walking back to the safety of the campsite--I guess it goes against the boy code of honor. When we reach the safety of the picnic table, my best friend and daughter tell us they saw momma bear sticking her snout through the brush on the opposite side of the bank to investigate all the noise.

At this point I have to throw the boys in the SUV because they want to go bear tracking. I might be a fierce Mamma on occasion to defend my carful of kids but I am no match to a mamma bear defending her cubs. A close encounter for sure and the carful of kids talk about it for the rest of the day.

I take this as our cue to load up and drive north to Banff National Park, 230 miles away, which takes us about four hours to drive. Once we get on Alberta Highway 2, we take the opportunity to refuel with a quick stop for gas, groceries and Tim Horton's, Canadian's Dunkin' Donuts. Refueled we head through Calgary and make it to our destination for the next couple of days, Banff National Park.

Banff is the town that lies within the boundaries of Parks Canada's Banff National Park; it has hotels, restaurants, museums and tons of shopping. I find it a bit touristy and it's always crowded, especially the main road, Banff Avenue.

The Carful of Kids sit for a moment after climbing all over Cascade Gardens in Banff.
We find a place to park right over the Bow River Bridge along Birch Avenue, the carful of kids will be walking around town for the next few hours so I find a central location. Our first stop is Cascade Gardens ( 101 Mountain Avenue behind the Parks Canada Administration Building, open from dawn to dusk, Free ) to admire all the plants we can't grow in Central Texas.

Since my best friend and I love flowers and gardens they live in, we have to walk through this one. Public gardens are great for kids as long as you let them run around and the big girls talk flowers among ourselves.

While walking down Banff Avenue, we find the UNESCO's World Heritage Plague for the Canadian National Parks of Banff, Jasper, Kootenay and Yoho.
We walk over Bow River Bridge to the Banff Park Museum, a National Historic Site ( 91 Banff Avenue, open 10 a.m to 5 p.m., Admission $ 3.90 CAN/Adults, $ 1.90 CAN/Youth ) Built in 1903, it's an great example of decorative cross-log construction and it's full of mounted specimens from Banff National Park so kids can see the animals that are hard to spot in the wild.


We need some crepes!
We walk down Banff Avenue souvenir shopping when we stumble upon Skoki's for crepes and frozen yogurt ( 109 Banff Avenue, open 9 a.m. to 9 p.m.). YUM, a couple of my favorites; after refueling, we wander down to the Banff Visitors Center ( 224 Banff Avenue, open 9 a.m. to 7 p.m.) for more local information.

Time to change gears and experience some nature, I find the Bow Falls Trail across from Bow River Bridge that takes the carful of kids to Bow Falls. It's a paved path that is .75 miles long with a 32-foot elevation gain, a great way for the kids to let loose and run.

At the Bow Falls, the carful of kids run along the path to use up some energy.

The carful of kids marvel at the power of Bow Falls before finding the path that leads to the Banff Springs Hotel. No trip through Banff is complete without walking through its elegant lobby.

The Banff Springs Hotel is the jewel of Banff; it was built by the Canadian-Pacific Railway in 1888 and part of the grand railway hotels of Canada like the Prince of Wales Hotel and Chateau Frontenac. It is an example of the Scottish Baronial Style with 764 rooms on 15 floors, it's a beautiful property.

The Banff Springs Hotel, this is where I like to stay without a carful of kids.
After we walk through the public areas of the Banff Springs Hotel, the carful of kids are ready to check out the campsite. I have reserved one of Parks Canada oTENTiks, a cross between a rustic cabin and a tent.

The carful of kids first stayed at Parks Canada oTENTiks last summer at La Mauricie National Park in Quebec. The carful of kids love them so I reserved them for our entire tour of the Canadian Rockies.

Each oTENTik can sleep six but only one can sleep on top.
The Two Jack Lakeside Campground is a quick seven mile drive from the center of Banff but it's a world away from the tour buses and crowds. The Two Jack Lakeside Campground is on the shore of Two Jack Lake which is attached to Lake Minnewanka.

Each oTENTik is structurally the same and is equipped with an outdoor picnic table. Inside, you will find a table with four chairs and platform sleeping area equipped with foam mattresses--you can sleep six and the carful of kids throw their sleeping bags and pillows on top. There are some differences from park to park, like some have electricity and some don't, so check the Parks Canada website.

We are camping in Bear Country so everything has to be stored in the bear box on-site.
The oTENTiks ( $120/CAN per night, no minimum stay required, no cleaning deposit) are in high demand and can be reserved starting in January through the Parks Canada website.

The oTENTiks of Two Jack Lakeside Campground are mixed in with the regular tent sites and this campground is tight. The restrooms have showers with hot water and there is a utility sink with hot water outside that you can do dishes.
Does it get more beautiful than this?

Since there's plenty of daylight after dinner, the carful of kids walk down to Two Jack Lake that is steps away from our site. We spend the rest of the evening skipping rocks and enjoying the majestic beauty of the Canadian Rocky Mountains.

Know before you go: Crandell Mountain Campground has flush toilets with sinks but no showers. You can take a shower at the Parks Canada Townsite Campground in Waterton Park.

The sites at Crandell Mountain are well equipped with a picnic table, a bear box and fire ring. There's evening ranger activities during the summer that are great for kids. There isn't a dishwashing station, you have to wash your cooking gear in cold water at a spigot.

The tipi was great for the kids but you need to pack a tent liner to ensure that your air mattresses doesn't get punctured during the night. This campground is more secluded than the campground in town yet still close to the conveniences of town.

Up Next: Another Day in Banff National Park



Tuesday, September 22, 2015

Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park in One Day


The carful of kids wake up after a great night's sleep at Swiftcurrent Motor Inn in Glacier National Park, we will continue our trek north when we cross the Canadian Border on our way to the Prince of Wales Hotel later in the day. We have been on the road for a week after leaving our home in Central Texas to drive to Jasper National Park with my three kids and one best friend of thirty years.

Since the weather can be chilly overnight in Glacier National Park (lows in the 40s, highs in the 70s during the summer season) we open our room window to get some fresh air. After the kids get dressed, we walk to the Swiftcurrent Restaurant located next to the lobby and general store--they serve up traditional breakfast items from 6:30 a.m. to 10 a.m and have a kids menu.


With the SUV loaded, we drive a couple of miles down the road to tour the Many Glacier Hotel on the shore of Swiftcurrent Lake. Construction began in 1914, it's the largest hotel in Glacier National Park with 215 rooms on five floors.

Interior Hall of the Many Glacier Hotel.
Like Lake McDonald Lodge, the Many Glacier Hotel is an example of the Swiss Chalet style and constructed by the Great Northern Railway. The majority of the building materials were sourced in the park.

At the Boat Dock along the Swiftcurrent Lake
Many Glacier Hotel offers all the excursions you get at the hotels along Going-to-the-Sun Road, like horse-back riding, the vintage red bus tours, guided hikes and the wooden boat tours just in a quieter, more secluded location. If you prefer a less crowded option for national park vacations during the summer season, stay in the Many Glacier area.

Overlooking Many Glacier Hotel, even in the height of summer--it's a little chilly.

I wish we could explore Glacier National Park for a few more days but the carful of kids have a reservation and need to cross the US/Canadian border. Luckily there's a border crossing just for Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park.

There's the border in-between the US and Canada. 
After exiting Glacier NP and driving back to the town of Babb, we turn north and continue onto Highway 17 or Chief Mountain International Highway. Chief Mountain Border Crossing is a limited border crossing that operates in the summer only from May 15 until September 30 from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.

There are several things you need to consider when taking an international camping and road trip. There are several items that are prohibited: bear spray, poultry products due to recent Avian Flu outbreaks in the US and firearms. You can bring most food for personal use during your camping trip. I suggest checking the Canadian Customs website.

I pulled together a folder full of documentation for crossing the border, remember that the border agents have the authority to deny entry into Canada if they want to. I am traveling into Canada with my children that are under 18 with only one parent present so I want to have all my documentation accessible to make the process as easy as possible.

The carful of kids have passport cards, there are inexpensive ($40) and good for five years.  Passport cards are good for land and sea travel into Canada, Mexico, the Caribbean and Bermuda. 

Items I carry in my travel folder:

  • Passports and Passport cards and a copy of Melissa's passport (just in case)
  • Notarized letter of consent--see below
  • Copies of the kids' birth certificates--I left the originals at home 
  • A copy of our itinerary which includes the addresses of hotels and campgrounds plus their reservation numbers.
  • A copy of our car insurance. If your state issues a paper car registration add that as well 

The notarized letter of consent:

  • A statement from my husband stating he is a legal guardian of our kids with their full names, dates of birth, and passport numbers
  • The full names and addresses of the people the kids are traveling with (Melissa and myself) along our passport numbers and dates of birth 
  • The dates we are traveling and when we will return
  • His contact information
  • His signature
  • Notary stamp and signature

At home I have left a similar folder with copies of all the information for Dad as well, just in case. I took pictures of everyone's passport and texted those to my husband and my best friend and traveling companion. As we learned on last summer's road trip, sometimes things go off schedule. 

We say good-bye to the US and approach the Canadian Border Officer-- we roll down the windows, pass them our passports and offer them the folder. The agent takes it and looks over the letter of consent and asks the kids a question. They thank me for pulling together the appropriate information and let us through after making sure we don't have bear spray and chicken.

After crossing the border into Canada, the carful of kids are ready to continue the journey. We drive to our next destination, the town of Waterton Park, where the Prince of Wales hotel is located. It is located inside of the Wateron-Glacier International Peace Park, 


Another Canadian province for the Carful of Kids.
The drive to Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park is an easy, picturesque 30-minute drive from the border. Rotary International was instrumental in joining Waterton Lakes National Park and Glacier National Park into an internatioanal park in 1932; it's also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

The daily admission is $ 19.60 CAN for a family or $ 136.40 CAN for the Discovery Annual Pass. We stop in the town of Waterton Park for a few groceries. The town is quite congested during the day and parking can be hard to find so we grab what we need and move on.

The Parks Canada national park system has towns with businesses inside the boundaries of their national parks, which is different from the United States park system. You can find all the services that a traveler might need, like groceries, gas, hotels, outfitters and souvenirs.


Perched on top of a small hill overlooking the Middle and Upper Waterton Lakes, The Prince of Wales Hotel is magnificent. 
Prince of Wales Hotel is an iconic hotel that I have wanted to visit for years and it's our next stop. It's the final hotel of the Northern Railway's Swiss Chalet inspired hotels that they built in Waterton Lakes and Glacier National Parks; it opened in 1927 and is perched on top of a hill overlooking the town below. 


Afternoon Tea at the Prince of Wales Hotel with my kids
The carful of kids walk through the hotel's double stained-glass doors where I have arranged a special Mom treat--we have reservations for Afternoon Tea at the Prince of Wales Hotel. Tea is served from 1 p.m. to 5 p.m., with the last seating at 4 p.m. ( $ 29.95 CAN for adults and $ 15.95 CAN for kids 11 and under), I have been looking forward to this since we left Texas a week ago. 

"See Mom, I'm using my manners."
This is a great way to practice our best table manners and since it's in a national park, the atmosphere is a tad more casual. The girls order traditional pots of tea while the boys decide to drink lemonade instead; that's OK because they are trying so HARD for Mom.

All the trimming for Afternoon Tea.
Since we are in Canada, the tea offerings lean toward the traditional English--cucumber tea sandwiches, sweet and savory scones, shortbread, chocolate cream puffs and raspberry tarts all served with clotted cream. I am in heaven.

Dressed in the Royal Stewart plaid, our waitress describes each plate.
The view from our table is amazing as the carful of kids look out the floor to ceiling windows at the Upper Waterton Lake. We spend an hour sipping on our tea and nibbling at our treats with our hiking boots peaking out from underneath the tablecloth.

The Valet, wearing his Royal Stewart Kilt, takes us to the top floor.

The Prince of Wales Hotel is a small hotel with 86 rooms but stands seven stories tall. The hotel still uses their original elevator that you ring a bell for the valet to come and take you upstairs.

The Front Entrance to the Prince of Wales Hotel
When we reach the top floor we notice the building is swaying, a little eery but the valets assures us the building was engineered to withstand the winds. The chinooks can get a little intense at the Prince of Wales Hotel, reaching 75 mph at times.

The Chinooks at the Prince of Wales Hotel
As the carful of kids walk outside to the lawn behind the hotel, I grab the hand of my seven-year-old so he doesn't blow off the cliff. The winds are that crazy wild and the kids love running round. I could have happily spent the night at the Prince of Wales Hotel but the kids know I made a reservation for something special.

The kids love it but I really don't know how much sleeping will get done.
In the Crandell Mountain Campground of the Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park they have authentic Blackfoot tipis that you can reserve. Last Mother's Day, I spend the morning calling Canada so that my carful of kids could spend the night in a tipi during our trip.

Bear boxes make excellent hiding spots, if I see a bear I know where I'm going!

The carful of kids are beyond excited as they roll out their sleeping bags. We are camping in bear country so there is a bear box and you have to practice bare camping. Parks Canada requires everything to be put away except your tent and camping chairs.

Parks Canada has an interpretive activity for the kids, like the NPS--the Parks X'plorers Program requires kids to fill out a booklet, take a hike or attend a ranger program. I find that the Parks Canada program is easier and takes less time compared to the NPS Junior Ranger program.
My youngest is a bumble bee.
Our camp ground has a great family program scheduled for after dinner so the carful of kids walk down to the amphitheater. It's a great program for kids and my boys volunteer to help out as a bumble bee and a night hawk.

It's been a long day and the carful of kids are ready to call it a day and settle into our tipi for the night.

Know before you go: Parks Canada starts taking reservations for their campgrounds in January for trips over the summer, check out their website for specific dates for each campground. Crandell Mountain Campground has flush toilets with sinks but no showers--you can take shower at the Parks Canada Townsite Campground in Waterton Park.

The sites at Crandell Mountain are well equipped with a picnic table, a bear box and fire ring. There are evening ranger activities during the summer that's great for kids. There isn't a dishwashing station, you have to wash your cooking gear in cold water at a spigot.

The Crandell Mountain Campground is more secluded than the campground in town and still close to all the conveniences of town.

Up Next: Banff National Park



Thursday, September 17, 2015

One Glorious Day in Glacier National Park

Montana--a new state for the Carful of Kids.
The carful of kids spent the day hiking around Devils Tower National Park before driving to Shelby, Montana. We plan on spending one glorious day in Glacier National Park before continuing our trek north to cross the border and seeing the Canadian Rockies.

The drive across Wyoming and Montana lingered and we arrived late into the night but I didn't see any large animals near the Interstate so that's always good news. The town of Shelby, Montana, is small but adequate for gas and a room.

Sometimes the road disappears, it seems we missed our detour sign.

Shelby, Montana, is a good choice to spend the night as the roads to Glacier National Park are windy and best left for day driving. The carful of kids enter Glacier NP from the eastern Saint Mary Entrance, 87 miles from Shelby or an hour and a half.


Well, you don't see that in Texas.
Glacier National Park is open every day and the admission rates depend on the season. From May 1 to October 31 the 7-day pass is $ 25 for a standard vehicle and from November 1 to April 30, the rate is reduced to $ 15 for the 7-day pass. I use my America the Beautiful Annual pass that I bought way back at Scotts Bluff  National Monument since we are visiting several NPS sites.

Months ago, I made reservations at the Swiftcurrent Motor Inn and Cabins near Many Glacier Hotel in the northern part of Glacier National Park. I wanted to get a room or cabin along the main route in Glacier, Going-to-the-Sun Road but those accommodations were booked six months or more before the busy summer season. So plan ahead and reserve when there's snow on the ground for your summer trip.

There is camping if you want to do that but I don't enjoy tent camping while road tripping, I've done them and I don't like to set and and break down the tent everyday. The carful of kids scatter like ants when the heavy lifting has to be done so I find and reserve cabins instead.

A word on the lodging reservation system for the popular national parks, it seems unfair but you can reserve rooms up to 12 months in advance. The reservations require full payment but can be refunded if your vacation plans change. I don't know about you but my family can't pay for vacation the summer before we leave so I have to get creative.

Along Going-to-the-Sun Road
The big draw for Glacier National Park is driving Going-to-the-Sun Road, it's the 50-mile road that crosses Glacier from east to west. It's a seasonal road but the West Glacier Entrance to Lake McDonald Lodge is maintained throughout the winter.

The remainder of the Going-to-the-Sun Road can close anytime in October depending on the snow fall. The reopening of the road can be as early as late June or as late as the first week of July depending on the plowing.

Skipping rocks while we wait for the DeSmet, a 1928 wooden boat on Lake MacDonald, to dock.
I made reservations for a wooden boat tour on Lake McDonald for 1:30 so the carful of kids are resisting the urge to stop and drive straight through. It is approximately 40 miles but I give us an hour and a half due to seasonal road construction. Good thing, we stop for 20 minutes for the paving crew.

We arrive in plenty of time for our check-in on the DeSmet, a wooden boat built by the McDonald Family in 1928. This is a ranger-led tour of Lake McDonald that talks about the biology of Glacier National Park ( tickets for adults 13 and older are $ 16.75, kids 4 to 12 $ 8.50 and kids three and under are free).

Along the rear of the Lake McDonald Lodge, it's a 1913 Swiss Chalet.
As we glide across the prisitine blue waters of the lake I can't help myself, I shut my eyes for a few minutes. It's that relaxing but you need to make reservations for this tour before you leave for vacation--there's a one hour tour leaving at 11 a.m., 1:30 p.m., 3 p.m., 5 p.m. and 7 p.m.

The details in the NPS Park Lodges are all custom and add to the splendor of our parks.
After disembarking the Desmet, the carful of kids walk through the Lake McDonald Lodge--the three and a half story stone and wood Swiss Chalet built in 1913. It is a National Historic Landmark, rich in rustic details and the furniture was made especially for the Lodge.

A guest sits at the piano and plays for visitors sitting in the lobby.
The Lake McDonald Lodge is another example of the western lodges that were built in the early part of the 20th century to entice tourists to the new National Park System. The Western Park Lodges were built in conjunction with the railroads or local businessmen of the era and featured an architectural style unique to the western parks that would later be described as parkitecture.

The Historic Red Buses of Glacier, if you have the time, this is a must.
Lake McDonald area is also a major departure area for the Historic Red Buses of Glacier National Park, the vintage buses were built in the 1930s and have been fully restored. The tours are booked well in advance and the average tour lasts six hours, the tour company offers tours departing from the east side of the park as well as the west side.

Before leaving the Lake McDonald area, we stop off at the overlook for McDonald Falls. 
The carful of kids continue west on the Going-to-the-Sun Road and stop at the Apgar Visitors Center  (open from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. early June to early September) to get our Junior Ranger Booklets and to have a late picnic lunch. As we travel north, we have more sunlight and we have started eating 4 times a day.

After turning the SUV around, we head back east on the Going-to-the-Sun Road to retrace our drive. Don't worry, there is so much to see it doesn't seem redundant. The carful of kids stop for a hike at the Trail of Cedars, an easy .7 mile accessible walk that's in the shade. A great hike for all family members and we didn't feel like we were going to encounter any bears.

Along the Trail of Cedars Nature Trail.
Bear Aware: Glacier National Park is Grizzly Bear country. They are a larger and more aggressive breed of bear than the black and brown bears that you find in the other areas of the US. It is advised to carry and know how to use bear spray in Glacier National Park--it can be rented if you don't want to buy it since you can't take it across the border or on an airplane.

But as a Mom traveling with three children ages 12, 11 and 7 along with my best friend of 30 years, I'm not taking any chances--I stay on well marked, highly traveled trails and leave the back country hiking to those not traveling with a carful of kids.

The Mountain Goats of Glacier, it's their home, not yours. 
When the carful of kids stop at Oberlin Bend to look at the Alpine wildflowers, we encounter a couple of male Mountain Goats walking through the parking lot like they own the joint. I have always had a belief that NPS animals have a schedule of daily appearances so as soon as the pair walk through the parking lot, chaos ensues.

Some visitors start digging food out of their vehicles to hand-feed the WILD animals, one parent poses their kids with the goats too close for my comfort. A couple with small dogs pick up their pooches only to be trapped on the boardwalk. People are snapping pictures like paparazzi.

My carful of kids listen to the Park Rangers and follow their instructions. We leave as much space as possible between us and the wild animals then slowly make it back to the safety of our SUV and then snap our picture.

Overlooking Logan Pass Visitor Center

The carful of kids continue onto the next stop headed east, Logan Pass Visitors Center ( open from 9 a.m to 7 p.m. from the opening of the Going-to-the-Sun Road until September 7, from September 7 until September 21 9:30 a.m. to 4 p.m., closed for the season after that ). This is a beautiful area in the summertime that's full of wildflowers of every type and the start of the Hidden Lake Nature Trail--the parking is limited and is best visited early or late in the day.


Glacier National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site
The day is fading and we want to get into our reserved room at Swiftcurrent Motor Inn and Cabins so we exit the Going-to-the-Sun Road and leave Glacier NP though the Saint Mary Entrance. I drive north to the town of Babb where I make a left and head back into Glacier NP through the Many Glacier Entrance.

The Swiftcurrent Motor Inn Lobby, Restaurant and General Store
The Many Glacier area of Glacier NP has a less crowded feel than any of the lodging along Going-to-the-Sun Road. This area has the Many Glacier Hotel if you prefer a larger full-service property or the Swiftcurrent that features cabins and nice motel-style rooms with a restaurant and general store.

Before checking into our room, we decide to have dinner in the Swiftcurrent Restaurant (open from 6:30 a.m. to 10 a.m. for breakfast, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. for lunch and dinner ), they are extremely family-friendly and feature a kids menu. The carful of kids spot the pizza on the menu so we split a large pizza with pepperoni and pineapple, their favorite--the service and the pizza are both great.


The room at Swiftcurrent Motor Inn ($ 155/ night for two full-sized beds and attached bathroom with a shower) was recently remodeled and nicer than I expected. The white linens are pristine and the room is nicely furnished. 

The attached bathroom is utilitarian but doesn't have a tub--which some kids might have a problem with the shower. The rooms do not have telephones or TVs and the cell service is spotty. If you are a registered guest, we can use the weak Wifi in the lobby to get email but that's about it. 

If your kids need to unplug for your vacation, Glacier National Park is the place. You won't be able to download a thing and uploading photos is impossible. 

The carful of kids are calling it a day and I loved our glorious day in Glacier National Park, I wish I had a few more days to explore but more the reason to return.

Know before you go: Cooking is not permitted in or around the Swiftcurrent Motor Inn and Cabins. The general store features assorted camping supplies, camping food, fresh hot coffee and ice, along with souvenirs. There is a coin laundry facility in the Swiftcurrent area.